Madeira has been on my bucket list for years, and when we moved to Lisbon in February, I knew it was one of the first places I wanted to visit. We booked a trip for April and spent five days exploring the island. This post covers everywhere we went, my honest opinions, and the tips I wish I had known before planning this trip.

Madeira is a volcanic archipelago that sits in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, roughly 1,000 kilometers southwest of mainland Portugal and actually closer to the coast of Morocco than to Lisbon. Despite being an autonomous region of Portugal, it feels like an entirely different world. The island is often called the "Island of Eternal Spring" because of its mild temperatures year round... and at sea level, that's mostly true. Funchal sees sunshine nearly 300 days a year. But don't let that nickname fool you, because as we learned the hard way, the weather here is anything but predictable.

The island has dramatic microclimates, which means you can be standing in bright sunshine on the southern coast while the northern side is completely socked in with fog and rain. The mountainous terrain creates these conditions, and the weather can shift within minutes as you drive from one part of the island to another. We went in April, which is still a volatile time of year weather-wise. I was picturing warm sunny days at the beach and lovely hikes through green mountains. Some trails delivered on that, like Levada Nova, which was warm and sunny the entire time. But others were a completely different story: sideways rain, thick mud, wind, and temperatures cold enough at high elevation that I wished I had packed a proper winter jacket.

Another thing I didn't fully realize before going is that Madeira isn't particularly known for its beaches. There are two "golden" sand beaches on the island, but they are small and get crowded quickly. There are also two black sand beaches, which I found a bit underwhelming and not as relaxing as I had imagined. If you're coming from southern Portugal, which has some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen in my life, Madeira is not the place for that kind of trip. If you want a beach vacation in Portugal, the Algarve is where you should go.

What makes Madeira unique is its natural pools. These are volcanic rock formations along the ocean's edge where waves crash over and fill them with seawater. They're scattered around the coastline, and some of them have been developed into more formal swimming areas with ladders and platforms. The natural pools at Seixal and Porto Moniz are among the most famous.

That said, I want to be honest about what to expect. These pools are right up against the Atlantic Ocean. The water can be rough, the sea can be cold, and it's not a warm bathwater experience by any means. Depending on conditions, the waves crashing over the rocks can be intense. We went in April and it was too cold to swim, and some of the pools were actually closed due to sea conditions. Still, they are genuinely cool and unlike anything I have seen anywhere else, and if you visit in the warmer months when the conditions are right, I imagine swimming in them is incredible.

Where Madeira truly shines is its hiking. The trails here are some of the most dramatic I have ever experienced. The island is covered in ancient laurel forests that are UNESCO protected, volcanic peaks that rise above the clouds, and levadas, which are historic irrigation channels that wind through tunnels carved straight into the mountainside. Some of the hikes are consistently ranked among the best in all of Europe.

In January 2026, Madeira introduced a new hiking reservation system that changes how you plan and access the most popular trails. I'll explain exactly how it works below, because understanding this system before you go will make your trip significantly easier to plan.

Top Tips Before You Go

Expect flight delays. Madeira Airport is famous for its tricky landings. The runway was built on pillars extending over the ocean, and strong crosswinds can cause flights to divert to Porto Santo or even back to Lisbon at the last minute. This is not uncommon. Build buffer time into your travel plans, especially if you have connecting flights or a tight schedule. Do not book anything time sensitive for the day you fly in or out.

Dress for every single type of climate. I cannot stress this enough. Bring beach clothes, but also bring a proper rain jacket, warm layers, and even a hat and gloves if you're planning to hike at higher elevations. The temperature and weather can change dramatically as you move around the island. We made the mistake of not packing warm enough gear, and there were moments on the trails where I was genuinely cold.

Check the weather on each part of the island separately. Because of the microclimates, it can be sunny in Funchal while it's raining heavily in the mountains or on the North Shore. Before heading out for the day, check the forecast for the specific area you're going to, not just "Madeira" in general.

Most major hiking trails have webcams. This is incredibly helpful. Before committing to a hike, you can check the live webcam feeds to see what conditions actually look like at the trailhead or summit. This saved us from driving an hour to hike PR1 (the most famous hike on the island) only to find it completely fogged in.

Rent an automatic car. TRUST me on this. Everything in Madeira is steep, narrow, and winding. The roads curve along cliffs and through mountains, and unless you are extremely confident driving a manual transmission in challenging conditions, you will want an automatic. You have to specifically request an automatic when you book, because most rental cars in Portugal are still manual.

Be careful when driving. Even on two lane roads, people use one lane as parking which seems crazy and pretty dangerous to me but I don’t make the rules. You'll be driving along thinking everything is fine, and then suddenly there are just parked cars in the middle of the lane. Stay VERY alert when driving.

About the hikes in this guide: While I go into detail about the hikes I personally did below (Fanal Forest, Levada Nova, PR1, PR6/PR6.1, and PR8 at Ponta de São Lourenço), there are so many more hikes on this island that I did not get a chance to do, either because of weather or time. I had 13 hikes bookmarked before our trip, and I'm including the link below to my full hiking list on AllTrails, which includes the ones I did and some of the ones I'm planning to do on a future trip, like PR17.

[Here is the link to my saved Madeira hikes list]

One thing I wasn't expecting is that a lot of these hikes have long, dark tunnels that you walk through. Depending on which hikes you want to do, it might be worth bringing a headlamp!

Understanding Madeira's New Hiking Trail System

Madeira Portugal Hiking System Explained

As of January 2026, Madeira implemented a new reservation system for its most popular hiking trails. If you're planning to hike, understanding how this works before you go is essential.

Most hiking trails in Madeira are labeled with "PR" numbers (PR1, PR6, PR8, etc.). The numbers are organized by region, not by difficulty, so don't assume that a lower number means an easier hike.

For the most popular trails, you now need to book tickets in advance through a platform called SIMplifica. Tickets cost €4.50 per person (except for the full PR1 trail, which costs closer to €10), and you select a specific half hour time slot to start the hike (for example, 11:30am-12:00pm).

Link to book trails via SIMplifica: simplifica.madeira.gov.pt

I actually really appreciate this new system. It keeps the trails from getting overcrowded, and the fees help fund trail restoration and maintenance (which is why parts of PR1 were closed when we visited, because they're actively working on them).

When you book through SIMplifica, the system shows you how full each time slot is. If a slot is at 90% capacity, you know it's going to be crowded. If you prefer quieter trails, pick a different time or a less popular slot. This is honestly the best tip I can give you for planning hikes in Madeira.

Important: You are not supposed to hike before 8am or after 6pm on the regulated trails without special permission. We hiked part of the PR1 trail after 6pm not realizing this was a rule and luckily we were fine, but if you are planning on doing this you should be aware that you risk getting fined. I’m not sure how strict they are as the trail was still packed at 7pm.

Check trail status before you go. Some trails close for restoration or due to weather conditions without much advance notice. You can check current trail status at: visitmadeira.com/en/what-to-do/nature-seekers/activities/hiking/. I found the site very helpful.

Not all trails require reservations. Levada Nova, for example, does not require advance booking. But this also means the trail and parking areas can get crowded. I go into detail about this hike down below.

Funchal

Funchal is the capital of Madeira and where most visitors base themselves. We spent our first afternoon wandering the town after arriving, and it was way cuter than I expected. We grabbed brunch, picked up fresh bread and groceries at a local market, and then headed to our Airbnb to settle in.

We stayed in an Airbnb rather than a hotel, and I highly recommend this approach. Having a cozy place with a kitchen to come back to after long days of hiking made such a difference. Our Airbnb happened to be right next to a golf course, so my partner Greg was able to squeeze a few rounds in. The views from the golf course and Airbnb were honestly insane. and it was easily one of my favorite places I've ever stayed. Here is the link to our Airbnb.

By evening, we were ready to just relax. Greg went to the golf course, I did yoga on the balcony overlooking the valley, and we made a simple dinner at home. We intentionally kept the first day low key to save our energy for the bigger adventure days ahead.

We didn't eat out much on this trip and opted to make most meals at home, but here are a few restaurants I had flagged in Funchal in case it's helpful: A Tendinha, Loja do Cha, Taberna Madeira, Bela 5 Snack Bar, Rustikas, and Prima Caju.

Madeira Coffee Roasters

Since we don’t drink, good coffee is VERY important to us, which means our first stop after picking up the rental car was obviously Madeira Coffee Roasters. The shop is is less than 15 minutes from the airport and ended up being the best coffee we had during the entire trip! If coffee matters to you at all, don't skip it. It also has a 5 star rating and 469 reviews on Google, so if you don’t trust me…. you can trust the people.

Fanal Forest

This place blew me away. I know this sounds cheesy, but I don't think I've ever walked somewhere that felt so alive and ancient at the same time.

Fanal Forest is part of the Laurisilva, Madeira's UNESCO protected laurel forest and one of the last remaining of its kind. These forests are remnants of a prehistoric ecosystem that once covered much of Southern Europe millions of years ago, and Madeira is one of the only places on earth where they still exist. Some of the trees here have been around for over 800 years. They don't just look old... they feel like they've been watching everything for centuries. Honestly, if someone told me actual witches met here, I wouldn't question it.

The mist here is also legendary. Madeira's thick rolling fog appears out of nowhere, wraps around everything, and suddenly you're in a completely different place than you were five minutes ago. You can drive to Fanal in bright sunshine and within minutes find yourself standing in a foggy, moody forest that feels like a dark fairytale.

Our honest experience: We woke up early to hike one of the trails surrounding the forest, but the weather turned as we were driving. By the time we arrived, it was raining sideways and we were totally unprepared. The trail was caked in mud, and other hikers had full rain gear while we stood there like idiots in our Lulu sweats and running shoes. Lesson learned. We saw a girl walking in with beautiful white sneakers and we both felt so bad knowing what she was about to encounter. If you're planning to visit, dress for chaos. Bring actual rain gear and proper hiking boots or shoes you don't care about.

Fanal Forest itself does not currently require a reservation through SIMplifica, but Madeira is implementing a broader reservation system and limiting daily visitors, so check ahead before your visit. They are also starting to fence off different areas and create a boardwalk through the forest, so this may be your last chance to explore it fully on your own.

There are also two longer hikes around Fanal that do require a reservation: PR13 Vereda Fanal is about 4 miles while PR14 Levada dos Cedros is about 6.7 miles. We had booked a reservation for the latter but decided to skip it when we got there because the conditions were so bad. I will definitely be doing one of these in the future though.

The North Shore

After visiting Fanal Forest, we drove along the North Shore since they're close to each other, stopping at random miradouros (scenic viewpoints) along the way. There are tons of them scattered along this stretch, and there are entire blogs dedicated to where to stop if you want specific recommendations. We ended up just driving and pulling over when something caught our eye, which is how we prefer to travel.

As I've mentioned several times, the North Shore is noticeably colder than Funchal and the southern coast, so bring layers even if it seems warm when you leave your accommodation in the morning!

One of my favorite things about this day was that we didn't have a rigid plan. Eventually we found a random hillside restaurant where an older man was grilling giant meat skewers by a firepit outside. Part of the fun for us is stumbling on places like this instead of planning everything out, and this place ended up having some of the best fries I've ever had.

If you prefer to plan ahead, I've seen Cabo Aéreo Café and Restaurante São Cristóvão mentioned frequently for the North Shore. While Seixal and the natural pools are technically located on the North Shore, I'm including them in a separate section below.

I cover this full day in a reel on my Instagram here.

Seixal and the Natural Pools

We stopped in Seixal to check out the natural pools and the famous black sand beach. Madeira is known for its natural pools, which are volcanic rock formations along the ocean's edge where waves crash over and fill them with seawater. Seixal has one of the most popular ones on the island, and Porto Moniz on the northwestern tip is another well-known spot.

There's also a black sand beach nearby called Praia do Porto do Seixal, one of the only black sand beaches on the island.

Our honest experience: We went in April and it was too cold to swim. The pools were actually closed due to sea conditions, which apparently happens fairly often. If you're planning to swim in the natural pools, check conditions beforehand and understand that even in warmer months, this is the Atlantic Ocean… which means the water is not always warm and can be rough. The waves crashing over the rocks can be intense depending on the day.

I'm sure on a calm, sunny summer day the experience is great — we just didn't get to find out for ourselves.

About Praia do Porto do Seixal specifically: The beach is tiny and parking is very limited. I would personally skip it unless you specifically want to see a black sand beach. If you do go, expect it to potentially be crowded since people come here for the photo op. And honestly, the photos I've seen online are much more beautiful than the beach we actually experienced.

Levada Nova (one of my favorite hikes!)

Levadas are historic irrigation channels that run throughout Madeira, many of them built centuries ago to carry water from the rainy north side of the island to the drier south. Over time, hiking trails were built alongside these channels, which is how you end up walking through tunnels carved straight into the mountainside.

I did Levada Nova as a solo morning hike while Greg went to the golf course. The trail is about 6 miles round trip and takes you through waterfalls and tunnels…. you literally walk right behind two gushing waterfalls, which was incredible. It was one of the most fun hikes I've done in a very long time and definitely kept me on my toes.

While I absolutely loved this trail, it might not be for everyone. The path is incredibly narrow in places with steep drop-offs, so if you're scared of heights, this one probably isn't for you. I also got really lucky with timing because I was totally alone for most of it, which made a huge difference. If this trail is crowded, I can honestly see it being a nightmare — you'd be stuck waiting for people to pass in tight spots, losing the peaceful atmosphere that made it so special. Timing really matters here.

A few things to know: Levada Nova does not require advance booking through SIMplifica, which means the trail and parking area can get quite crowded. Arrive early or later in the day if you want a quieter experience. You also park on narrow roads in winding neighborhoods, and I really appreciated having an automatic car for this one.

PR1: Vereda do Pico do Areeiro

Oh man, this was a BANGER. PR1 is consistently ranked as one of the best hikes in all of Europe, and after doing it, I completely understand why. It was easily one of the coolest hikes I've ever done — and I say that as someone who has trekked to Everest Basecamp, spent 4 days hiking through the Peruvian jungle to Machu Picchu, and done Angels Landing and the Narrows in Zion National Park.

PR1 connects the two highest peaks on the island and starts at 6,000 feet elevation. We were literally walking through clouds. At certain points, the trail cuts along narrow ridges with steep drops on either side, and you're completely surrounded by mist. I kept saying it felt like being in Avatar. Most of the trail was sadly still closed for restoration when we visited, but even the section we were able to do was absolutely unreal (between 2-3 miles total). It was the highlight of our entire trip.

As I'm writing this in late April 2026, the full trail is said to be opening soon, so make sure to check the Visit Madeira webpage I mentioned above to get the latest status.

Tips for PR1:

✱ At 6,000 feet, it gets cold very fast. We did not dress warm enough and I genuinely wished I had a warmer jacket with me. If you're planning to stay for sunset, go for sunrise, or do the full hike, bring layers (and even a beanie).

✱ ✱ The parking lot fills up fast, so plan accordingly and arrive early. If you don't want to do the full round-trip hike, you can book a shuttle or taxi that can take you back to the parking area afterwards, which is helpful if you just want to do the trail one way.

✱ You can check the webcam before you go to see what conditions look like at the summit. We found this super helpful! The peak is sometimes totally covered in clouds, and while partial cloud cover looks incredible and adds to the dramatic atmosphere, you may want to pick a different time if it's fully clouded in and you can't see anything.

PR6 and PR6.1 Hikes (Levada das 25 Fontes and Risco Waterfall)

In full transparency because I want this guide to be genuinely helpful: I thought the PR6 and PR6.1 hikes were overrated. But this was just our experience. If you can catch it when it's quieter, you might absolutely love it. So don't be discouraged if this is on your list!

These are among the most popular hikes on the island, which means they were packed when we went. The trails themselves are nice, but compared to PR1 and Levada Nova, I didn't find them as interesting or as dramatic.

Here's how it works: You park at a lot (which was really busy when we went on a weekday afternoon), and then you hike down a long, wide paved road to get to the actual trailhead. This part isn't interesting at all, it's just a straight shot down. Once you get to the trail and the waterfall, it's actually pretty cool and I enjoyed it, but for us it was the sheer number of people that ruined it. We were constantly waiting to pass on narrow sections and trying to take photos with dozens of others doing the same thing.

That said, this is a good family hike, especially with younger kids, because it's not as sketchy as some of the others. The trail is wider and more accessible, which is probably why it's so popular (we saw lots of families).

If you do want to do the PR6 hike, make sure to check how full the time slots are when you book through SIMplifica and try to go at a time where it's not at 100% capacity. You can also pay to take a shuttle back up at the end instead of hiking back up that long paved road, which is nice.

Cascata dos Anjos (Waterfall of the Angels)

This is the famous Instagram spot where a waterfall flows directly over the road. You can drive very close and then walk anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes depending on how full the parking is.

My honest opinion: I also thought this one was overrated. We went in the middle of the afternoon when it was busy, and honestly everyone was just there for the photo. While I love a good Instagram moment, that's not what I plan or revolve my days around. If you want the true Madeira experience, it's not here.

That said, if you happen to be driving past it, sure, stop and take a look. And if you really want that famous shot, I'd recommend going early in the morning or at sunset when it's quieter.

Praia da Calheta & Machico Beach (The Golden Sand Beaches)

Madeira isn't known for beaches, but there are two golden sand beaches on the island: Praia da Calheta and Machico Beach. Fun fact: the sand was actually imported since Madeira's coastline is mostly rocky. We visited and enjoyed them.

They're small but pleasant if you want a beach day. Just know that beach culture here is very different from what you'd find in the Algarve. Don't come expecting long stretches of sand or that classic beach holiday vibe. There were restaurants and bathrooms at each one, which was really nice.

Ponta de São Lourenço

Ponta de São Lourenço is the easternmost tip of Madeira, and it's beauuuuuutiful. The landscape here looks completely different from the rest of the island. Instead of lush green forests, you get dramatic rocky cliffs and sparse vegetation that feels almost lunar.

There's also a popular hike here called PR8 that runs along the peninsula (about 4 km each way, so roughly 8 km round trip). We didn't do the hike this trip, but we explored the area and could see the (very crowded) trail from a distance. It looked like a line of ants moving along the ridge! It's definitely on my list for next time, and I plan on going when the trail is not at 100% capacity on SIMplifica.

Important: It is extremely windy out here. Bring layers even if it seems warm. Also, there's very little shade, so sunscreen and a hat are a must.

Helpful Links

Trail Reservations and Information

SIMplifica — Book hiking trail reservations (€4.50 per person, required for most popular PR trails as of January 2026)
Visit Madeira Trail Status — Check current trail conditions, closures, and restoration updates

Weather and Webcams

IPMA Madeira Weather — Official Portuguese weather service with forecasts by location
Madeira Webcams — Live webcam feeds from various points around the island, including hiking trailheads

Getting Around

Madeira Airport (FNC) — Official airport website with flight information and updates

My Saved Hikes List

Link to my 13 bookmarked Madeira hikes — Includes the trails I did on this trip plus the ones I'm planning for next time, like PR17

If you found this guide helpful, feel free to share it with anyone planning a trip to Madeira. And if you want to follow along with more travel content from Portugal and beyond, you can find me on Instagram @stasianikova or subscribe to my newsletter down below.

A Complete Guide to Madeira, Portugal